Lindisfarne

I think this time of year encourages introspection, as one considers the events, accomplishments, and disappointments of the previous twelve months. This December those feelings have been magnified by the loss of my aunt, who was so much more to me than the designation implies. My earliest memories are of her arriving --- from planes, trains, ships---always vivacious, stylish, laughing. From her I learned about Turner at the Tate, Degas at the Met, and the charm of American primitives in the Sears collection at Fruitlands. She was adamant that one wore proper attire for riding, and made sure I kept my heels down and back straight. She taught me horsemanship was about more than staying in the saddle. Although she traveled extensively, she especially loved England. For as far back as I can recall, I wanted to be just like her, and so I studied art, visited museums, memorized long passages of Shakespeare and developed an early affinity for all things British. I assume that’s the reason I chose to do my 7^th grade research project on the Lindisfarne Gospels. That and the fact I was kind of a nerdy kid. I loved illuminated manuscripts – no, seriously. A highlight of my teens was seeing the Book of Kells.

Fast forward to a few years ago, when I was driving south from Edinburgh on the A1. A small sign on a country road read “Lindisfarne.” I peeled off to the left, inspiring my husband to utter a few phrases destined to enhance our six year olds vocabulary.

The Holy Island of Lindisfarne is a tidal island, connected to the mainland by a causeway. Twice each day the tides from the North Sea sweep in and cover the road, and the drive to the village is hauntingly beautiful. We watched a group of riders unload their horses and take off across the wet sand. I longed to join them.

The Lindisfarne Heritage Center is an excellent way to begin one’s visit. Although the Gospels reside in the British Library, visitors to the island can experience the manuscript by viewing either the facsimile edition, or by “turning the pages” of the electronic version. Another exhibit features the life on the island – its people, its plant and wildlife, and climate. The visitor then exits to the grounds of the Priory ruins, built by the Benedictines in the 11^th century, believed to be in the vicinity of the 7^th century Irish abbey. On the day of our visit, a local theater group was performing “The Lion, the Witch, & the Wardrobe” among the ruins. The nearby Parish Church shows traces of both 7^th century and Saxon influences.

Sited on a volcanic mound called Beblowe Craig, Lindisfarne Castle rises above the rest of the island. Built from the stone of the Priory, following the 1550 destruction of abbeys by Henry VIII, it was intended as a defense against Scotland. Purchased from the Crown in 1901, it was converted to a country home by the architect Sir Edward Lutyens. The gardens were designed by Gertrude Jekyll. We were not able to visit the castle on that trip, our plans dictated by the tides. Yet another reason to return.